When night comes and you’re about to set up your tent, what could be more helpful than a tent light? Without one camping can be a bit difficult when you can’t see who you are about to step on in the tent, but thanks to the Coleman Tent Light and its very powerful magnet you can place the light inside and illuminate the entire tent. This allows you to put out your sleeping bags and what-not without a hitch.
Since the Coleman Tent Light has an extremely powerful built-in magnet, you can place the light just about anywhere in the tent and be able to see everything. The magnet will not damage any of the tent’s fabric when you secure it to one of the tent poles, and because it’s secured on the tent there is plenty of space on the ground – unlike with the average lantern. The light runs on 4-AA batteries, and the bright Krypton light bulb is replaceable. Also, there is an easy on/off switch. The Coleman Ten Light won’t take up too much space in your bag and weighs only about two pounds, which makes it convenient to carry along with you for any occasion.
The Coleman Tent Light, though not extremely bright, is still useful when there are toddlers or other children on the camping trip. It can act as a nightlight for younger children but is dim enough not to disturb other campers. Also, there is enough light to talk to the other people in the tent or play games and even read if held close enough to the book. The built-in magnet is located on top of where the batteries are put in, and though it is a very strong magnet it can sometimes pull off the cover to the batteries, leaving the batteries to fall to the ground. Furthermore, the light itself is a bit heavy and with the weight of the batteries it’s even heavier. In one case the life of the batteries was quite short, staying lit for only about four hours with brand new batteries.
The Coleman Tent Light is a good buy if you are not looking for anything excessively bright and need just a small light to help you around the tent without hurting yourself or anyone else.
Unless you are planning to eat cold cereal, sandwiches, and food straight from the can you're going to need some way to cook your meals. The question is, “which stove should you use to prepare your meals?” The answer to this question depends on what kind of camping you’re going to do as well as what you want to cook. As with other camping gear, selecting a stove and cookware can be confusing. The wide variety of stoves and fuels can leave the prospective camper wondering: What's the difference? Is one better than the other? Each type of stove and fuel has advantages and disadvantages, making it great for certain types of trips but not so great for others.
There are many different types and sizes of stoves for you to choose from. The mystery in selecting a camping stove disappears once you know the choices and have decided what type of camping trips your family will be taking. Will the stove be used for backpacking, car travel, ice fishing, vacation cabin or family outings? Will the stove be used in the United States, Europe, Africa or Asia? Do I need to get the stove through airport security? How many people will use the stove? What kind of weather conditions will be present?
You can narrow your choices by determining which general type of camping you will be doing, either backpacking or family/group camping. Backpacking requires appliances that are quick to set up, easy to light, stable, fuel efficient, dependable, durable, compact and lightweight. The availability of fuel in other countries, and its performance at various altitudes and temperatures, can be a deciding factor, if using the stove for trekking or touring. Whereas, family or group camping allows more leeway in the weight and size of stoves, since they don't need to be carried in a backpack. Comfort and convenience, while cooking for a larger group, is usually the most important factor. The fuel efficient, dependable, durable, stable, easy to light, and quick to set up stoves are still desirable.
WHAT'S IMPORTANT TO YOU?
As you can see, size and weight are the two biggest factors in choosing a stove. Many manufacturers provide ratings to assist in your selection, such as the BTU (British Thermal Units) output, burn time, and fuel capacity of the stove. Other requirements, such as ease of use and packing, can only be judged from actual use and recommendations.
WEIGHT
Weight is particularly important when backpacking. As a rule, the smallest stoves range from 15 ounces to 36 ounces (with fuel) whereas the family camping stoves rarely list weights but start at around 8 pounds (without fuel) for the lightest verities. The type of fuel and size of the container also impact the overall weight of the system, as their weight will vary.
SIZE
Stove size, both in use and packed away, is almost as important as the weight. A well designed single or double burner stove will be easy to set up and will fold down into a compact shape that also protects the components. Single burner stoves are generally the most portable, although some are considered too heavy for backpacking. The most common fuels for these are white gas, butane, and unleaded gasoline. Double and triple burner stoves are good for family camping or trips that provide baggage transportation. Propane, white gas or unleaded gasoline is the most common fuel used in these stoves.
Pocket stoves, for emergency situations, consist of a small tray to hold your pot or cup, and burn a small, compressed cube of fuel. A few stoves use "canned heat" such as Sterno, however this type of fuel burns very cool and takes a long time to cook food or boil water. It is therefore, best reserved for an emergency survival kit.
EASE OF USE AND PACKABILITY
Ease of use and packability is important to both individuals and groups. Nobody wants to spend their camping or backing trip trying to outwit a stove. The stove should be simple, with few parts (fewer to lose and easier to maintain) and store compactly. Electronic ignitions eliminate the need for matches (dry or otherwise) and make lighting a snap. Stability, of both the stove and your pot on top of it, is more difficult to achieve on lighter weight stoves. Adjustable legs can help compensate for uneven terrain and surfaces.
BOILING TIME
Boiling time is a rating that indicates how long it takes the stove to boil water. The results are not concrete, since manufacturers don't all start their tests with the same amount of water at the same temperature so you might want to test your new stove in different conditions in your backyard before leaving home.
BURNING TIME
Burning time is the length of time that a stove will burn on a full "tank" or cylinder. This rating is subject to altitude, pressure and temperature changes. Again take this factor into consideration when buying your stove.
CAPACITY
Capacity is the amount of fuel that a stove, with a fixed container, will hold.
BTU
BTU’s (British Thermal Units) are the maximum heat output. The higher the number, the hotter, more efficiently the stove cooks. Flame adjusters regulate the speed that fuel is released in order to control the size of the flame, and thus the temperature that you are cooking with. Though most 2 and 3 burner stoves can be adjusted, like your kitchen stove, some single burner stoves are either on or off.
Once you have clarified your needs, make a check list and head to the camping store. The store employees are generally knowledgeable and willing to help you make the choice that is right for you.
(This article is adapted from the following website:http://www.angelfire.com/ia3/camping2/stove.htm)
Being hungry and stuck with all the dirty dishes is never any fun, but there is no need to fear when the Coleman PVC Double Wash Basin is here. The wash basin can save any camper a lot of time and trouble when it comes to getting around to washing those dirty dishes. And since the basin is double-sided, campers can now rinse and wash their dishes at the same time.
The Coleman PVC Double Wash Basin is small (10.5 x 1.2 x 10.5 inches) and weighs only around two pounds, which makes it a very convenient piece of equipment to bring along on a camping trip. It comes with ready-to-use cookware, including bowls, plates, forks, spoons, knives and cups. All the cookware is plastic so it’s easy to use and clean. The four handles allow the wash basin to be picked up and easily transported, and it is collapsible for compact storage. On top of all that, it comes with a one-year warranty.
In some cases the Coleman PVC Double Wash Basin was too heavy to lift with water in it when campers tried to dump out the used water. Also, when hot water is used to clean the dishes, the collapsible sides sometimes give way and allow the water to seep out. In other cases the hot water was so hot that it cut holes right into the side of the wash basin. In addition, some of the sharper knives poked holes in the softened sides of the wash basin, which again let the water leak out of the basin. However, in most cases the Coleman PVC Double Wash Basin worked wonders for those who used it. It is definitely a great alternative to bulky, exceedingly heavy other wash basins.
The Coleman PVC Double Wash Basin is an inexpensive buy and does wonders for your camping experience. If you use a little common sense when doing your dishes this tool is exactly what most campers need.
There are many questions to be answered and aspects to consider when buying a tent that will be used for something other than “backyard camping”. The answers to these questions will help narrow your search and put you on a better footing when you enter the outdoor store with check book or credit card in hand.
Will the tent be used primarily for “car camping” or were you planning on using it to “backpack” or “canoe camp”? The answer to this question will help in guiding you toward the desired weight of your new tent. If you are primarily “car camping”, then the weight of the tent is not as important a factor as it would be if you were backpacking or canoe camping. Another aspect not be overlooked is the size of the tent. This determination is made based on the number and size of the people who will be sharing the tent? Today, many modern family tents come with plenty of head room to stand in and also contain separate rooms within the tent for privacy. On the other hand, backpacking tents economize in internal space to cut down on weight.
Another important aspect to be considered is the cost. Camping tents can range from as little as $20. for a backyard version of a two person tent to several hundred dollars for a high tech, special use tent for mountaineering conditions. A family can generally find a good tent in the $100 – $300 range, while backpacking tents can range as high as $500 for one that will house a couple of adults and be serviceable for all four seasons of the year.
Over and above the preceding information, there are several specific points that should be discussed. The following information addresses these points and is taken directly from an article on About.com by David Sweet, “Buying a New Camp Tent? Features of Camping Tents”.
What tent features should I look for?
* A tent with aluminum poles.
Tents may come with fiberglass poles, but they are fragile and more likely to break. If you bend or break a pole, most camping stores sell replacements or repair kits.
* A tent with an adequate rain fly.
The rain fly is your tent's umbrella. The bigger the better. Look for a fly that comes well down the sides of the tent rather than just across the top. Rain flies are waterproof. Tent walls are water-repellant.
* A tent with folded seams and double stitching.
If you can pull the material on either side of a seam and see through the stitches, this tent will leak. Be sure to use seam sealer on all seams.
* A tent with a one piece tub floor.
The floor should be made of waterproof material, and it should come a few inches up the sides before it is sown to the tent walls. No seam in the floor means there is no place for water to seep in.
* A tent with adequate guy lines.
Tent walls, and sometimes rain flies, have loops sown near the middle. These loops are used to attach guy lines that pull out the walls so that they are taught. It's impossible to sleep in a tent that's flapping in the wind.
* A tent with good-sized stake loops.
There should be loops at the base of your tent in every corner and at the center of each side. These loops need to be big enough to accommodate the large plastic stakes sold in camping stores. Material stake loops are preferred. Plastic ones might break when you hammer in the stakes.
* A tent that uses noseeum meshing.
This is the best material for keeping those nasty little bugs out.
* A tent with a roof vent.
Opening this at night will help create some air circulation and eliminate condensation inside your tent
* A tent with heavy-duty zippers.
You'll be in and out of your tent a lot so you want zippers that will hold up to frequent use
Good luck and happy tent shopping!!
It is probably true that more people have a fear of snakes than any other creature found in nature, yet we still love to camp knowing there is a good chance that we will come face to face with a member of the serpent family at some time in our camping life. Therefore, the more one knows about snakes, their habitats and their ability to cause harm to humans, the less threatening this encounter becomes and the safer the outcome for the camper as well as the snake.
Also known as constrictors, there are twenty-two different species of non poisonous/non venomous snakes found in New Jersey and these constrictors far out number their poisonous counterparts. The most common of these non poisonous snakes include the Black Rat Snake, Eastern King Snake, Hognose Snake, Eastern Garter Snake and the Northern Water Snake. All of these snakes kill their prey by trapping and squeezing them prior to ingestion.
The non poisonous snakes mentioned above are found in a wide range of habitats, although they usually seek areas that have a readily available food source. Hence, many of these snakes will venture around houses that have a high mouse or bird population, a favorite and easily accessible food for snakes. Additionally, a campsite that is not well kept and has trash and unwrapped or poorly wrapped food or human and/or pet waste strewn about will attract snakes.
The Northern Water Snake, which is the only one of the above mentioned non poisonous snakes found in New Jersey, is also the only one found in the water. It is most often confused with the Water Moccasin, which is the aggressive and highly venomous snake found in waterways throughout the southern states but not in New Jersey. While the Northern Water Snake may startle you, it will not harm you and wants to be left alone.
For the most part, constrictors exhibit shy and non aggressive behavior but will bite if cornered or handled. Although their bite may hurt, it is not poisonous and the wound should be washed, disinfected and covered with a band-aid to prevent infection.
The poisonous snakes, also known as pit vipers, that can be found in New Jersey are the Northern Copperhead and the Timber Rattlesnake (which is the only rattlesnake found in New Jersey). Both of these snakes bite their prey and inject them with venom thus poisoning and in many cases, but not all, killing the prey. These snakes should be avoided if at all possible.
The Northern Copperhead, commonly known as “copperhead”, is the first of the venomous snakes mentioned above. The adult measures approximately 24”-36”, is a reddish-brown color with darker hourglass bands and is easily camouflaged in the leaf litter of a forest floor. Small, dark spots are frequently present between the cross bands and dark, rounded spots can be seen at the sides of the belly. Northern Copperheads are often spotted by campers as they favor rotting woodpiles in rocky, wooded areas that are usually mountainous. Although their habitats are scattered throughout the northern regions of New Jersey, they are primarily located in Sussex, Warren, Hunterdon and Passaic Counties.
The Timber Rattlesnake, common in the northeast states can be anywhere from 36" – 60" when full grown with two color variations found in New Jersey: (1) yellow variation exhibits black or dark brown cross bands on a background color of yellow or brown. The cross bands may be v-shaped and break up into spots down the back of the snake; (2) black variation exhibits a heavy stippling of black or very dark brown that hides much of the lighter pigment. It is not unusual to find a completely black snake. Unrelated to their color variation, the Timber Rattlesnake found in New Jersey has two distinct populations and habitat requirements. In northern New Jersey, Timber Rattlesnakes are found in rocky, wooded ledges where they den in south-facing slopes while in the Pine Barrens, Timber Rattlesnakes have scattered populations found in swamps and pine-oak forests, where they den along riverbeds.
Poisonous or Non Poisonous? If you are close enough to the snake, you can often answer this question by taking a good look. Constrictors or non poisonous snakes have a round shaped eye, whereas poisonous snakes have an eye that is more oval in shape and somewhat resembles the shape of a cats eye. However, if you are unsure of which type of snake you are dealing with, or elect not to venture to close, it is best to continue to keep your distance and leave it alone. The best way to avoid being bitten by any snake is to stay alert while camping or hiking and never put your hands or feet anywhere you can not see. The snake is as afraid of you as you are of it, so in most cases, if you leave it alone it will move out of the area. Remember, when you are camping, you have entered the snake’s habitat so do your best to let it be.
Although at first deciding on what types of food to take camping and/or backpacking might pose a dilemma, when we really examine the situation we find that most foods for camping and backpacking can be the same foods that we use in our home on a daily basis. What we really face going without when we camp for an extended period of time away from our Recreation Vehicle or car is the lack of refrigeration. Thus, the real dilemma that confronts us is the same dilemma that has confounded man since the dawn of civilization – how do we preserve our food to keep it eatable over a period of time? Of course today we may have an ice chest but ice will only last for so long and who in their right mind would take an ice chest backpacking? Today there are many methods, both old and new, to preserve food. For camping and backpacking I find that we still primarily use two of the oldest methods recorded and one that is relatively new. The older methods are dehydration and canning and a relatively newer method is freeze drying.
The process known as dehydration uses heat to remove the water from the food, thus keeping it from spoiling. Many of the foods we use for camping and backpacking are dehydrated and can be easily found on our grocers shelves. Some of the foods included in this group are dried fruit, instant potatoes, beef jerky and beans. The positive aspects for using dehydrated foods for camping and backpacking are the relatively low expense, long shelf life and their light weight. Additionally, we enjoy many dehydrated foods in our everyday life so there is no worry with a change in our diet. However, it takes a great deal of time to reconstitute dehydrated foods so the camper or backpacker must have access to both.
Another method of preserving food is canning. As you know, much of the food we find on our grocers shelves comes in cans. The canning process involves precooking the food, sealing it in a can or bottle with the liquid intact and then heating the can, often in a water bath, to kill any bacteria in the food. Some of the foods included in this ready to eat group are pastas, meats and vegetables. The positive aspects of using canned food for camping are somewhat similar to dehydrated foods in that they are relatively inexpensive, have a long shelf life and are found in our everyday life. However, canned foods contain a great deal water and are therefore heavy to carry and disposal of the can poses a problem if backpacking. I would recommend canned foods for camping where storage and can disposal is easier and steer away from them when backpacking.
The last method I would focus on that is very useful for camping and backpacking is freeze drying. Freeze drying is a process whereby the food is flash frozen and then placed in a vacuum chamber where the atmospheric pressure is lowered. This lower pressure causes the ice on the food to sublimate into liquid that is drawn off and collected. What is left is a food that is very light in weight and easy to reconstitute. In freeze drying, different from dehydration, the cells of the food do not collapse so they can more readily adsorb water when reconstituted. Where it may take overnight and a great deal of water to reconstitute dehydrated beans, freeze dried beans take a matter of minutes and a minimal amount of water to be ready to eat. Entire meals, including a meat, starch, vegetable and dessert may be freeze dried. Although they are light weight, they tend to be on the expensive side and are generally only found in camping stores.
Obviously it is up to each individual to pick the method of food preservation for their type of camping. If weight is not an issue then canned food is great. If weight is an issue, such as in backpacking, or expense comes into play then dehydrated food may be the way to go. However, if the food weight is a concern but not the cost, then freeze drying may be the process of choice.
Regardless of what method you choose there is one thing to remember, if the food doesn’t taste good, no matter what method was used to preserve it, you won’t want to eat it. Always try your food and recipes at home before you take them with you on your camping or backpacking trip. There is nothing that spoils a trip more than being forced to eat food that just doesn’t taste good. Bon Appetit !
What do you need to take with you on a camping trip?
That is a question that I get a lot. My reponse is usually something along the lines of: What are YOUR camping needs?
It's really a personal question that varies depending on the person/people that are going camping.
Here are a couple of basics that just about everybody needs:
1. Something to sleep under – a tent, trailer, RV or cabin…for you "rugged" types it could just be the stars in the sky.
2. Something to sleep in – sleeping bag, sheets and a blanket, air mattress, pad, blankets, etc…
3. Something to wear – shorts and t-shirts, multiple layers of cold weather gear or somewhere in between.
4. Something to eat – how long are you going to be there? How many people? What do like to eat?
5. Something to cook with – firewood? Charcoal? Propane?
That was the really, really basic list of camping needs.
Now let's talk in more detail.
Are you a novice camper that needs/wants all the comforts of home?
Are you a little more experienced but aren't sure how to pack lighter?
Do you go camping by yourself? With your spouse? With your whole family? With a bunch of friends that don't know how to camp?
I usually go camping with my wife and two kids and to make sure that I don't forget something important I usually use a checklist I created. Here is the basics:
Tents – yes plural…my wife and I have a tent and my kids have their own tent.
Four sleeping bags – 40 degree bags…my wife doesn't really do the whole winter camping thing so the 40 degree bags are sufficient.
Pillows
Extra Blankets just in case
Clothing – Appropriate for the season/location, extra change of clothes and an extra sweatshirt and long pants just in case.
Dining Fly
Camping Chairs
Campfire wood – check the campground you are going to…some don't let you bring your own firewood
Propane stove – 2-3 small propane bottles
Camping Kitchen – I love this invention…keeps all my cooking supplies together neatly and in one area
Garbage bags
Food for 4
Drinking water
Juice
Adult Beverage of choice – if appropriate and allowed at campground
Plates/bowls/silverware – we don't do plastic…we wash and reuse
Wash basins
Broom
Dustpan
Spices
Misc other stuff depending on the type/purpose/location of the trip
It's a lot of gear but when packed right it doesn't take up a whole lot of space. We can usually pack it all into a couple of 20gallon plastic totes, one cooler, the tent bag and a couple of dufflebags.
Your camping needs will vary to some degree from this list because you are a different person than me, have different needs than me and will probably be going camping different places than me. There really is no right or wrong answer to this question so when you begin thinking about what to pack here is what I suggest:
Sit down with the list above, pen and paper, a description of where you are going and some idea of what you plan to do while there and create your own list ahead of time. Put some time into thinking about this list and what you need and don't need. Also consider the type/size vehicle you are taking because that might very easily limit what you can bring. A Hyundai Elantra will not fit four people and all of the gear that I mentioned above but a chevy Trailblazer with a roof rack will.