Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent

Think of your Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent as your home away from home, with a lot less stress in setting it up and maintaining its condition. Much like your home, the Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent is designed with your needs and wants in mind. Let’s talk further about its advanced and easy design, special features, the cost of your Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent, and what you’ll need to know about refund and warranty items.

Advanced & Easy Design
The Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent is quite environmentally friendly, with its 100 percent recycled polyester fabric and dye-free color. Its Silicon treated fly and floor are also constructed of 100 percent recycled, dye-free ripstop polyester, containing a protective waterproof polyurethane coating. The Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent’s manufacturers have ingeniously incorporated NSL poles with press-fit connectors that use an anodization process in order to be significantly less intrusive on the environment. With recycled plastic clips to attach the body of the tent to the frame, and waterproof fly and floor seams that contain solvent-free polyurethane, there’s not much in their design that isn’t green.

Special Features
This three-season backpacking tent offers extra spread with its expansive space around the head and shoulders area and a side-door, dry-entry vestibule that can be staked out and used as an outdoor awning. Not only does this allow easy entry, but it brings the beautiful views and that wonderful outdoor freshness into the Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent for all to enjoy. Well ventilated with its four fly vents, it also has reflective webbing on its corners for after-dark visibility, so you can protect yourself from any uninvited and unwelcomed guests that may be wandering right outside your Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent. Of course, if you need to make a quick getaway, the hob-pole design offers tear-down in just seconds.

Price & Protection
Expect the cost of the Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent to be around $350; a real bargain for all its special features and dynamic design. Not owning a Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent could actually cost you much more than simply spending the money for a stronger built, waterproof tent. Cutting corners can cause drastic results as you get out on the trail and experience major issues with no immediate resolution except to grin and bear it. Cost is not the only thing to consider; there’s safety and comfort at stake—literally! Of course, you could decide on a minimalist shelter and simply use the rainfly poles and footprint, which is sold separately from the Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent.

Refund & Warranty
These change with every store or every online dealer, so be sure to ask the seller for specifics regarding their refund policy and warranty limitations. Whether you plan to have your Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent shipped from a local supplier or will be purchasing it online, be sure to check the box when it arrives for any obvious possible damage in shipping. It’s always more believable to correct the problem when you have a witness to its arrival condition. The affordable price, the outstanding quality, and the wonderful features will be so appreciated as you sit beneath the vestibule awning of the Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent sipping on your favorite beverage, eating food that always tastes better when cooked out in the open air, and swapping somewhat questionable camping stories.
 

Buy The Big Agnes Salt Creek 2 Tent Here!

Tags: camping basics, camping equipment, camping needs

ISN'T CAMPING DANGEROUS?

The things most people worry about when camping with children are wolves, bears, and the possibility of drowning.  These worries should actually be much less than the higher risk injuries such as sprained ankles on river portages, lacerations playing “Junior Woodsman”, burns caused by the campfire and so on.  The same dangers that can happen doing regular activities at home!  Try to and allay the child’s fears, and yours, with knowledge, and by all means avoid the scary stories.

WHAT ABOUT BUGS?

Yes, there are bugs in the outdoors.  Try and be calm when you explain about biting insects and remember in most cases, although uncomfortable, they won’t kill you.  Always carry bug repellant that you are sure you and your child are not allergic to.  Even if it doesn’t work it makes the child feel better.  Set a good example for your child by dealing with the bugs yourself in an adult manner and your child will probably mirror your behavior and not have a problem.

THE SCAREST THING IN THE OUTDOORS – THE BATHROOM!!

Many children will have questions and issues with where and how to go the bathroom when camping.  Toilets may be quite scary to a child.  A pit toilet may seem like a perfectly normal thing to you, but your toddler may not agree.  These toilets can smell pretty bad and it's easy to see why some children are afraid of falling in.  When you tell your child about camping, be sure to include information about the bathrooms.  Some of the flush toilets can be loud and are not like the potty at home.  If your child will still use a potty chair you may want to bring one along – just in case.  Camping trips can also be a real chance for a breakthrough in the area of potty training as there are no “accidents” on your rug or your furniture and a potty chair can be set up anywhere in your camp site so your child won't feel isolated.  You will have more time with your child when camping, and this can be the most help of all.

From your child’s point of view the toilet paper may seem yucky.  Most camp bathrooms have industrial quality (sand paper) toilet paper.  Your young bath roomer may refuse to use this stuff.  Some camps provide little squares of paper.  A parent may be able to use this stuff but a young child might have some problems.  Additionally, many of the toilet paper dispensers make it quite difficult and sometimes impossible for a small child to get the paper off of the roll.  This is actually intentional.  The harder to obtain the less paper is used.  Many former park employees think this is the silliest thing they have ever seen as the bathrooms always end up with bits of paper all over the floor and people break these irritating dispensers all the time.  Your child may not even be able to get the paper off of these rolls.  The biggest problem of all is an empty dispenser.  You will find this every busy weekend you camp.  The easy solution to the toilet paper problem is to bring your own.   

Bathing and showering can also be scary for children.  Camp showers can be a test of your patience.  The temperature may be hard to adjust (or impossible) and the water may run cold for some time before getting warm.  Most camp showers require quarters to operate – and some campers complain of running out of money in the middle of shampooing their hair.  Children who normally take baths at home will not appreciate a camp shower.  Many camp grounds do not offer bathing facilities at all.  If you plan on camping for any length of time you will have to adapt and teach your children to do the same.  Some ways to adapt are Sun Showers (a large black bag with a shower head) are great for camping.  You can use them at home a few times to allow your children to become used to the idea.  Just set up the sun shower in your back yard and let the kids try it out with bathing suits.  Most kids just think of it as an interesting sprinkler and a sponge bath can work quite well, especially if you are camping in cold weather.

Enjoy camping fun and exciting times with your children and make a life time of memories. 
 

Tags: Camping, camping basics, camping with kids

Getting your campfire started can be one of the most frustrating outdoor activities, especially when the kids are waiting for their Smores with roasting sticks in hand.  Following is a summary of various types of home-made Fire Starters.  You will find a little thought and preparation goes a long way when getting your campfire started.

Use pine cones covered with wax**

Place a piece of charcoal in each section of a paper egg carton and cover with melted wax. ** Tear apart and use as needed.  You can also use sawdust, dryer lint or Pistachio shells instead of the charcoal.

Take 100% cotton balls and thoroughly rub Vaseline into them.   Keep in a zip lock bag and use as needed.

Use newspaper cut into strips (3"-4" wide).  Roll up and tie with string and cover with melted wax. **

Use lint from your dryer as a fire starter.

Bundle about 10-12  Diamond brand "strike-anywhere" wooden kitchen matches together with waxed dental floss.  The heads of the matches should all be pointing in the same direction.  Generously soak the bundle of matches (except heads) in melted paraffin wax** to waterproof and to provide a long burn time.  Dip the match heads, lightly only, into the wax to waterproof them.  Simply strike on a flat rock to ignite.

Cut a cotton cord into 1" lengths and soak in melted wax. ** Let dry and store in empty film container or zip lock bag.

These are called candy kisses. Use the small 6" emergency candles and wrap them in waxed paper.  Tie/twist both ends of the waxed paper to seal in the candle (looks like a salt water taffy candy).  Light an end when you are ready to start your fire.

Cut waxed milk cartons into strips to be used as kindling for your campfire.

Stuff paper towel or toilet paper rolls with paper.

Newspaper crumbled into a ball.   Don’t ball the paper too tight and use several pieces and be sure it is very dry.

Use dried pine needles.

Soak a piece of charcoal in lighter fluid and coat with wax. **

Use small condiment or "sample-size" cups.  Add a long wick to each cup and fill with melted wax. ** You can also fill them with sawdust.

Use stacks of small pieces of cardboard covered in wax**

Waterproof your matches by dipping them in wax** or coating them with clear nail polish.

Use cotton string about 3-4" long, put in a wax paper bathroom cup with about an inch hanging over the edge.  Fill the cup nearly to the top with saw dust and pour melted wax into the cup.  The saw dust will compact and become waterproof.  The extra string length is a wick to start burning the starter, but can also be tied to another starter string through a pack loop to carry outside your pack.

*Never use liquid igniters such as gasoline or lighter fluid on your campfire

** When melting wax, only use a double broiler set up consisting of two pots, one which sits on top of the other.  The bottom pot containing boiling water, the top pot contains the wax.  You can improvise a double boiler by placing the items to be cooked in a metal bowl, which is placed over a pot of boiling water.

Melted wax can easily ignite so always have a fire extinguisher handy in cause of emergency.

Tags: camping basics, camping equipment

Arc'Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack

They’ve thought of everything in this light and durable, ultra comfortable Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack. If you’re an outdoor enthusiast who loves to hike and always wishing for just one more pocket, your wish has been granted. Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack has definitely designed their 420 advanced Composite Textile VaporTight™ nylon pack with the avid sportsperson in mind; probably the only pack you’ll ever own where there will be pockets to spare. It’s also quite easy to pack all your gear and clothing using the convenient top-loading main compartment with the dual-stage roll top closure. Climbers who hope for moisture-free mountain gear won’t be disappointed either, with the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack because of its weatherproof VaporTight™ nylon casing. Even the zippers and seams act as water barriers for worry-free containment. Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack brings a whole new meaning to “no fear” sealed for those of you needing the warmth, comfort, and freshness of dry item storage. 

The Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack is as comfortable as it is convenient, including adjustable sleeves that create a truly personalized, custom-made fit, and you’ll feel like the pampered camper when you notice the reservoir sleeve with an opening for your drinking tube. Not only is your water easy to reach, but so are all the items you can stash in your side-access kangaroo pocket and your zipper top pocket. The best thing about the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack is that you won’t have to suffer hours of discomfort when you load it to the max, because of the Transfer Disc™ that provides quick release action from your pack along with a motion range that is far superior to most other packs in its price range. The Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack offers hip belt suspension that allows optimum motion—all you do is give the Transfer Disc™ a gentle twist to tighten or release, and viola, the weight of your pack sits snuggly where it belongs.

With the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack, you don’t have to sacrifice quality and durability for comfort; instead, you can be assured that the enjoyment you’ll experience will be for many trips to come. Taking a look at the molded components and a unique suspension system, it’s obvious to see the care of the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack manufacturers, but their over-the-top design has raised the bar in quality and excellence by laminating and bonding it for a long-lasting, waterproof hold. The MonoFrame™ bag with EVA foam and two aluminum stays is just one more reason to choose the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack—you might say they have created the pro pack for those on the go.

For those of you who are challenged by climbing snowing cliffs, it’s good to know you won’t be challenged by your pack as well. The Axio™ ice-tool holder accommodates an ice axe with rip-and-stick fasteners, snowboards, skis, camping gear, along with all your clothing, and all can be attached, zipped, or fastened while wearing heavy gloves. So, for you “go fast” kind of guys and girls—a trip to your local sports store–$15! Purchase of the Arc’Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack–$450! Its guaranteed protection—priceless!
 

Get The Arc'Teryx Arrakis 50 Pack Now!

Tags: camping basics, camping equipment

How do you get a child to be excited about the outdoors when the competition is the television and video games?  How do you prove to a child that the same success that comes from the persistence, spirit and logic put into video games and pushing buttons can also come from the outdoors?  The following tips may be helpful and will go a long way in creating a positive lasting relationship with your child. 

Camping trips with children should be to places where there is a guarantee of action. A good example is camping in a park where large numbers of wildlife can be viewed, such as squirrels, chipmunks, deer and even bears.  Other good choices are fishing, canoeing, swimming, etc.  Children want action, not solitude

Remember that enthusiasm is contagious.  If you aren't excited about an adventure, you can't expect a child to be.  Show a genuine zest for life in the outdoors, and point out everything as if it is the first time you have ever seen it.

Always, always, always be seated when talking to someone small.  Not only does this allow you to see eye to eye with the child it allows you to visually see the world from the child’s prospective.  Fishing in a small boat is a perfect leveling activity for adults and children.  No one likes others to look down at them. 

Children learn behavior patterns and outdoor skills by watching adults, even when the adults are not aware they are being watched.  Therefore, whether it is gathering sticks for a campfire, cleaning a trout or tying a knot be sure you are following a safe and proper procedure.  When possible, never tell, but always show.  A button usually clicks to "off" when a child receives a lecture. 

A good rule is to let kids be kids!  Let the adventure happen, rather than trying to force it within some preconceived plan.  If the child gets sidetracked chasing butterflies or sneaking up on chipmunks, let them be.  Many times a youngster can have more fun turning over rocks and looking at different kinds of bugs than sitting in one spot waiting for a fish to bite.

Expect a child’s attention spans to be short.  Instead of getting frustrated, use it to your advantage.  How?  Try bringing along a bag of candy and snacks.  When there is a lull in the camp activity, out comes the bag.  Don't let them know what goodies await, so each one becomes a surprise.

Make absolutely certain the child's sleeping bag is clean, dry and warm.  Nothing is worse than discomfort when trying to sleep and every parent knows that a refreshing sleep makes for a positive attitude the next day.  In addition, kids can become quite frightened of animals that go bump in the night.  The parent should not wait for any signs of this, but always play the part of the outdoor guardian, the one who will "take care of everything."

Provide each child with a flashlight.  To prevent any arguments, make sure each child one has their own.  Children love to play with the flashlights, and having one also makes them more at ease after dark.  Flashlights are also handy when making trips to the restroom, for making shadow puppets on tent walls, and for reading before bed.  Remember to bring enough batteries.

Kids quickly relate to outdoor ethics and they will develop a sense of pride that goes with it if handled in the proper way.  Bring extra plastic garbage bags and make a game out of picking up litter and building a safe campfire.  Children will long remember when they do something right, especially when it is something somebody else has done wrong.

If you want youngsters hooked on the outdoors for life, take a close-up photograph of them holding up fish they have caught, blowing on the campfire or completing other camp tasks.  Young children can forget how much fun they had, but they never forget if they have a picture of it.

Teach children to be safe in the outdoors.  Teach young children to stay within eyesight, and older children within earshot.  Teach all children to stay where they are if they discover they are lost. With young children this may seem vague so instruct them to find a nearby tree and sit down beside it and stay right there without moving until they are found.

Children over the age of four can carry a simple survival kit, or at least a whistle around their neck to call for help when lost.  The standard distress signal is three blows to indicate "I'm lost" or "I need help."

Remember that most children get cold faster than adults.  The key to comfortable camping with children is to dress them in several layers, which can be peeled off as they get warm and added as they cool off.

Bring along a familiar board game.  Playing it outdoors with a lantern or flashlights will add to the fun.

If you just have one child let them to bring along a playmate.  A child generally enjoys camping when there is more than one of them as two or more children will entertain themselves for longer periods of time. 

The least important word you can ever say to a child is "I."  Keep track of how often you are saying "Thank you" and "What do you think?  "If you don't say them very often, you'll lose out.  Finally, the most important words of all are:  "I am proud of you”.

Tags: Camping, camping basics, camping with kids

There are several different types of fire, some are good for keeping you warm, others are better for cooking, however, they all follow the same design principals.  You always start with the smallest material first, and then build to the larger fuel.

Firestarter

It is good to have a firestarter at the base o f your fire.  This can be anything from balled newspaper to a commercial firestarter found in your local camping store.

Tinder

Tinder is the next smallest material.  This would be small, very dry sticks.  Since evergreens are self pruning trees, their lower branches are often very dead and easy to break off and do not hurt the tree.

Place your tinder in a small pile in the middle of the fireplace over your fire starter. Distribute the kindling neatly over the firestarter being sure to leave enough space for air to circulate.

Fuzz Stick

Sometimes there are not enough small twigs and sticks around to start a fire with. You can always make a 'fuzz stick' which, because of their curls of wood, catch fire more easily than a solid stick.  Something for whittling away those spare moments of 'nothing to do'.

Kindling

Kindling is the next size of wood.  These are usually pieces that are the diameter of fingers and about 6” to 12” long Build the kindling around your tinder,making sure that you do not pack it too tight,as the fire will need oxygen to burn well. Stack loose enough to allow air flow but close so it catches fire.  Some people use a tepee form while others will build a “log cabin” shape.  The neater you place your kindling the better the fire will light.

Now light your firestarter (did you remember to leave a space to reach your match to the firestarter?)  Once lit, you may need to blow or fan the flame gently to encourage it to light.

Always make sure that you have plenty of kindling available, so that you can add more as the fire becomes established. Once the kindling starts to burn, gradually add more until it is burning nicely.

Fuel

Fuel is the largest wood for your fire. Fuel may range is size from arm size pieces to major logs.  Just remember to add smaller fuel first and always leave room for air. Gradually add the fuel into the shape that you want. A tepee shape is great for a bonfire whereas building a “log cabin” shape is great for building a bed of coals for cooking. Don't rush this stage and make sure that the wood you are adding is less than twice the size of that which is already burning. Larger sticks & logs should be added as the fire is going well

Never throw wood onto a fire, always place it carefully Remember do not try to compact your base materials because you must leave them loose to allow for proper air passage. Any fire requires oxygen and by leaving materials loose this allows for oxygen to pass through the materials and ensure a good fire.

Once it's going good add more firewood, 2-3 pieces at a time going up in size and towards hardwood such as oak, ash and maple if you have it. They will burn longer. Aspen, birch and poplar are quite common and they make good fires as they burn hot  but fairly fast. Before you know it you will have a campfire. Once a coal bed has been built add the logs in a crisscross pattern and they will catch and burn nicely.

This is all fine and good if you have primo wood to work with.

Unfortunately if you're are relying on buying your wood at the campground store you may very well end up with fairly green (wet, fresh cut) softwood. The softwood part is OK, you'll just go through more. But what do you do about the green part?Start by taking your camp axe and shaving a piece or two to get a mound of chips or shavings. Then split a piece or two into small sticks. You can substitute local twigs and sticks if they are around. Kid's love rounding up that stuff. Finally split a few pieces into a 1 inch size range.
You may find that there are often folks selling firewood near campgrounds. Sometimes they have great dry wood all split and ready for a reasonable price, keep your eyes open when you're near your destination.

 Using of fluids to start a fire:

The use of gasoline or kerosene can be like poking a Bull Moose in the nose with a sharp stick. It is just not smart and could be deadly.

• Gasoline should NEVER be used under any circumstances.
• Kerosene on the other hand has been used to start fires without any problems. But, extreme care must be used.
• Do not use this method if there are flames or hot coals.
• You may get the same effect as if you tossed a lit match into a keg of gunpowder.
• You may be tempted to use charcoal fluid to start fire in desperation but even that can flare up if hot coals or flames exist.
• Make it a habit never to use fluids to start your fires.
• Be safe and learn how to build fires using firestarters and wood.

Tags: Camping, camping basics

It is probably true that more people have a fear of snakes than any other creature found in nature, yet we still love to camp knowing there is a good chance that we will come face to face with a member of the serpent family at some time in our camping life.  Therefore, the more one knows about snakes, their habitats and their ability to cause harm to humans, the less threatening this encounter becomes and the safer the outcome for the camper as well as the snake. 

Also known as constrictors, there are twenty-two different species of non poisonous/non venomous snakes found in New Jersey and these constrictors far out number their poisonous counterparts.  The most common of these non poisonous snakes include the Black Rat Snake, Eastern King Snake, Hognose Snake, Eastern Garter Snake and the Northern Water Snake.  All of these snakes kill their prey by trapping and squeezing them prior to ingestion.   

The non poisonous snakes mentioned above are found in a wide range of habitats, although they usually seek areas that have a readily available food source.  Hence, many of these snakes will venture around houses that have a high mouse or bird population, a favorite and easily accessible food for snakes.  Additionally, a campsite that is not well kept and has trash and unwrapped or poorly wrapped food or human and/or pet waste strewn about will attract snakes.
 

The Northern Water Snake, which is the only one of the above mentioned non poisonous snakes found in New Jersey, is also the only one found in the water.  It is most often confused with the Water Moccasin, which is the aggressive and highly venomous snake found in waterways throughout the southern states but not in New Jersey.  While the Northern Water Snake may startle you, it will not harm you and wants to be left alone.

For the most part, constrictors exhibit shy and non aggressive behavior but will bite if cornered or handled.  Although their bite may hurt, it is not poisonous and the wound should be washed, disinfected and covered with a band-aid to prevent infection. 

The poisonous snakes, also known as pit vipers, that can be found in New Jersey are the Northern Copperhead and the Timber Rattlesnake (which is the only rattlesnake found in New Jersey).  Both of these snakes bite their prey and inject them with venom thus poisoning and in many cases, but not all, killing the prey.  These snakes should be avoided if at all possible. 

The Northern Copperhead, commonly known as “copperhead”, is the first of the venomous snakes mentioned above.  The adult measures approximately 24”-36”, is a reddish-brown color with darker hourglass bands and is easily camouflaged in the leaf litter of a forest floor.  Small, dark spots are frequently present between the cross bands and dark, rounded spots can be seen at the sides of the belly.  Northern Copperheads are often spotted by campers as they favor rotting woodpiles in rocky, wooded areas that are usually mountainous.  Although their habitats are scattered throughout the northern regions of New Jersey, they are primarily located in Sussex, Warren, Hunterdon and Passaic Counties.

The Timber Rattlesnake, common in the northeast states can be anywhere from 36" – 60" when full grown with two color variations found in New Jersey:  (1) yellow variation exhibits black or dark brown cross bands on a background color of yellow or brown.  The cross bands may be v-shaped and break up into spots down the back of the snake; (2) black variation exhibits a heavy stippling of black or very dark brown that hides much of the lighter pigment.  It is not unusual to find a completely black snake.  Unrelated to their color variation, the Timber Rattlesnake found in New Jersey has two distinct populations and habitat requirements.  In northern New Jersey, Timber Rattlesnakes are found in rocky, wooded ledges where they den in south-facing slopes while in the Pine Barrens, Timber Rattlesnakes have scattered populations found in swamps and pine-oak forests, where they den along riverbeds.

Poisonous or Non Poisonous?  If you are close enough to the snake, you can often answer this question by taking a good look.  Constrictors or non poisonous snakes have a round shaped eye, whereas poisonous snakes have an eye that is more oval in shape and somewhat resembles the shape of a cats eye.  However, if you are unsure of which type of snake you are dealing with, or elect not to venture to close, it is best to continue to keep your distance and leave it alone. The best way to avoid being bitten by any snake is to stay alert while camping or hiking and never put your hands or feet anywhere you can not see.  The snake is as afraid of you as you are of it, so in most cases, if you leave it alone it will move out of the area.  Remember, when you are camping, you have entered the snake’s habitat so do your best to let it be.

Till Next Time

Eric

Tags: camping basics, camping in nj, camping needs

When going out to camp and enjoy all that “mother nature” has to offer, we have to face the reality that one of her offerings are all the many critters and creatures which we have, for the most part, effectively eliminated from our homes.  Some of these critters and creatures are nice and pleasant to view while others can only be termed as pests and often present a serious health hazard.  One of these dangerous pests is the tick.

Although there are several types of ticks, “tick” is the general name given for one of the small arachnids found in the superfamily Ixodoidea, that, along with other mites, constitute the Acarira.  Ticks are ectoparasites, which means they attach to the external, rather than the internal, body of their prey and live on the blood of mammals, birds, and occasionally reptiles and amphibians.  These small pests are known carriers and transmiiters of a number of diseases, the best known of which are Lyme Disease and  Rocky Mountian Spotted Fever.

Ticks can be found throughout New Jersey in the woodlands and fields and although they do not fly or jump, they lay in wait on brush, grasses and trees for a host to venture past. The host, generally warm blooded, can be man or animal, brushes against the plant while hiking and/or siting near the plant.  The tick then senses the increase in temperature (from man or animal) and thus crawls over, finds a warm secluded body part, attaches and begins to feed.  On a human the best “lunch bars” seem to be any area with hair such as the arm pits and head and often the waist bands or other close fitting areas of clothing.

In New Jersey there are four common types of ticks: 

LONE STAR TICK
Although Lone Star Ticks may be found along coastal areas of some northeastern states, central New Jersey marks the northern extent of significant inland populations of this species.  It is found as far south as Florida and west to Texas.  Throughout its range, the lone star tick may be quite abundant and, coupled with its aggressive behavior, is considered a serious pest to humans, livestock and wildlife.  In New Jersey, it is common in wooded rural and suburban areas from Monmouth to Cape May Counties.

BLACKLEGGED TICK or DEER TICK
The Blacklegged or Deer Tick is found throughout the eastern portion of the United States and several upper mid-western states.  Despite its extensive geographical distribution, most Lyme Disease cases are found in coastal northeastern and mid-atlantic states.  In New Jersey, the Blacklegged Tick and the diseases it transmits are most common in rural and suburban wooded areas.

AMERICAN DOG TICK
The American Dog Tick, often erroneously called the wood tick, is found throughout much of the eastern United States.  In New Jersey, it is found in rural as well as suburban areas but is more common in overgrown fields and wooded edges than in forests.  In urban areas, American Dog Ticks may be locally abundant in vacant lots, rights-of-ways,
or similar areas where vegetation is not maintained.  This tick is the primary carrier of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.

BROWN DOG TICK
The Brown Dog Tick is found throughout  much of the United States.  Although occasionally biting humans, this species differs from the other three host ticks of medical or veterinary importance as it normally is found on domestic dogs in all active life stages.  In more northern climates, this tick can become established indoors and is often found associated with kennels, households and other areas frequented by dogs.  Under ideal conditions, the Brown Dog Tick can complete its life cycle within 1 year.

Campers can help protect themselves from ticks by wearing light colored clothing (so you can easily see the tick) with long sleeves and long pants that can be tucked into socks.  Additionally, bug repellants which contains Deet or Permethrin applied to clothing seems to work well for many campers.  Of course, in the middle of the hot summer, in areas know to be heavily infested with ticks, it is always better to try not to brush up against plants and trees by sticking to the middle of the trail and staying out of heavy brush whenever possible.  Be sure to do a “tick check” of your body after your hike or before turning in for the night and don’t forget to check your pets.  This should become a daily routine as an infected Deer Tick must feed for at least 24 hours before it can begin to transmit Lyme Disease to its human host.

If, during your “tick check”, you do find an imbedded tick or even if it is just crawling and not yet imbedded, it should be removed and disposed of with care.  Removal should be done by grasping the tick with pointed tweezers NOT THE FINGERS.  Grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and gently pull backward until the tick becomes dislodged.  Be sure to remove the entire tick even if it means removing a small portion of the skin.  Any attempt to remove an attached tick with noxious chemicals or by burning will not work and may cause injury to the skin.  After the tick has been removed, wash the skin area and your hands thoroughly.  We will discuss “what to do with the tick in a moment”.  Next, disinfect the bite area with rubbing alcohol or providone iodine to avoid infection.  Monitor the bite area and consult a doctor if necessary.

It is important to save the tick for identification.  This is done by using the tweezers to place the tick in a small container of alcohol.  Record the date the bite occurred, as well as the location where the tick was acquired in case it is needed for a medical follow-up.  You should now thoroughly wash and disinfect the tweezers and your hands to avoid any cross contamination.
Although much of the information in this article may be found on the website www.twpfreehold.nj.us/tbde/default.asp there are many other sources on line and your local camping stores are always eager to help.  Happy camping and avoid the bugs!

Till Next Time

Tags: camping basics

Although at first deciding on what types of food to take camping and/or backpacking might pose a dilemma, when we really examine the situation we find that most foods for camping and backpacking can be the same foods that we use in our home on a daily basis.  What we really face going without when we camp for an extended period of time away from our Recreation Vehicle or car is the lack of refrigeration.  Thus, the real dilemma that confronts us is the same dilemma that has confounded man since the dawn of civilization – how do we preserve our food to keep it eatable over a period of time?  Of course today we may have an ice chest but ice will only last for so long and who in their right mind would take an ice chest backpacking?  Today there are many methods, both old and new, to preserve food.  For camping and backpacking I find that we still primarily use two of the oldest methods recorded and one that is relatively new.  The older methods are dehydration and canning and a relatively newer method is freeze drying.

The process known as dehydration uses heat to remove the water from the food, thus keeping it from spoiling.  Many of the foods we use for camping and backpacking are dehydrated and can be easily found on our grocers shelves.  Some of the foods included in this group are dried fruit, instant potatoes, beef jerky and beans.  The positive aspects for using dehydrated foods for camping and backpacking are the relatively low expense, long shelf life and their light weight.  Additionally, we enjoy many dehydrated foods in our everyday life so there is no worry with a change in our diet.  However, it takes a great deal of time to reconstitute dehydrated foods so the camper or backpacker must have access to both.  

Another method of preserving food is canning.  As you know, much of the food we find on our grocers shelves comes in cans.  The canning process involves precooking the food,  sealing it in a can or bottle with the liquid intact and then heating the can, often in a water bath, to kill any bacteria in the food.  Some of the foods included in this ready to eat group are pastas, meats and vegetables.  The positive aspects of using canned food for camping are somewhat similar to dehydrated foods in that they are relatively inexpensive, have a long shelf life and are found in our everyday life.  However, canned foods contain a great deal water and are therefore heavy to carry and disposal of the can poses a problem if backpacking.  I would recommend canned foods for camping where storage and can disposal is easier and steer away from them when backpacking.

The last method I would focus on that is very useful for camping and backpacking is freeze drying.  Freeze drying is a process whereby the food is flash frozen and then placed in a vacuum chamber where the atmospheric pressure is lowered.  This lower pressure causes the ice on the food to sublimate into liquid that is drawn off and collected.  What is left is a food that is very light in weight and easy to reconstitute.  In freeze drying, different from dehydration, the cells of the food do not collapse so they can more readily adsorb water when reconstituted.  Where it may take overnight and a great deal of water to reconstitute dehydrated beans, freeze dried beans take a matter of minutes and a minimal amount of water to be ready to eat.  Entire meals, including a meat, starch, vegetable and dessert may be freeze dried.  Although they are light weight, they tend to be on the expensive side and are generally only found in camping stores. 

Obviously it is up to each individual to pick the method of food preservation for their type of camping.  If weight is not an issue then canned food is great.  If weight is an issue, such as in backpacking, or expense comes into play then dehydrated food may be the way to go.  However, if the food weight is a concern but not the cost, then freeze drying may be the process of choice.

Regardless of what method you choose there is one thing to remember, if the food doesn’t taste good, no matter what method was used to preserve it, you won’t want to eat it.  Always try your food and recipes at home before you take them with you on your camping or backpacking trip.  There is nothing that spoils a trip more than being forced to eat food that just doesn’t taste good.  Bon Appetit !

Tags: camping basics, camping needs

When you decide camping is the type of vacation experience you want it opens a wide variety of choices in terms of what, when, where and how.  The first order of business is to decide what type of camping experience you want to have.  Following are some very important questions you should ask yourself and answer honestly before planning your camping vacation.    

1. Am I using camping as an inexpensive way to travel to a destination and sight see along the way?  For example; I want to take my family to Disney World but do not want to incur the cost of staying in a hotel or motel while traveling to or from the theme park or when I arrive.

2. Am I using camping as lodging to do something else in the outdoors?  For example; many hunters, fishermen and photographers use camping as a way to get close to the quarry.

3. Am I using camping as a means to get away and simply enjoy nature?  For example; you may have a high stress job and would like to get away to relax with an eye to simplifying your life for a short period of time.

4. Am I using camping as a way of doing something my family can enjoy and share?  For example; due to busy schedules you do not have enough family time and feel you are missing quality time and shared experiences as your children grow. 

For numbers one and two above, the camping experience is secondary to the reason you are camping.  Therefore the type of campground you choose may be based on how close the campground is to the place you want to visit as versus the amenities the campground offers, i.e. game room, movie night, putt put golf, etc…  If you are not looking to “get away from it all”, the site density (number of sites per acre) provided by the campground may not be an issue.  Of course, if you are camping at Disney World in the summer with the family it’s nice to have a swimming pool to relax in after a day with Mickey Mouse.  However, in the case of hunting and fishing camps, the bare necessities may be all you require and the site density would be an issue as overcrowding would drive away the quarry. 

For numbers three and four above, the core of the experience is the “camping” itself and not site seeing or other core activities.  This does not mean that you will not be doing activities such as hiking, swimming, fishing or some site seeing, but these activities are secondary to camping and getting away from the day to day experience.

Of course, your choice of campsites will also depend on whether you are an RV or tent camper and your level of camping skills.  If you are an RV camper you probably have many books and ideas on areas that best suit your rig.  However, if you are a tent camper there are various rules and regulations that will affect your camping experience in state and federal parks and forests as well as private areas, i.e. open fires, gathering fire wood, use of water, etc…  None the less, picking a campground based on the experience you are looking for and your personal skills heightens your chances of having a successful camping vacation. 

So my friends get out your pen and paper and plan your camping experience.  Answer the above questions, and find the perfect campsite for you.  If Disney World is your destination, a private campground, with a pool, close to Disney or on the property may be ideal.  However, if you want to get away from it all, a secluded tent site in a remote State or National Park or Forest with nearby hiking trails and natural swimming “holes” may be the ideal.  Whatever you decide, make sure your skill set is up to par and have a safe and fun filled trip.
 

Tags: camping basics